Mid Life adventures on 2 wheels

This trip to Tasmania represented our first real foray into motorbike touring. Riding our first bikes — Chris on a Suzuki V-Strom 650 and Janette on a Honda CB500X — we set off to see whether the magic of our cycling tours could be found again in a new form. Over eight days, we crossed the island from coast to coast, through mountain ranges, forests, and coastal towns, rediscovering that same familiar rhythm: two wheels, shared adventure, and absolute freedom — a simple circular route that began and ended in Devonport.

Duration: ~7 Days
Trip Type: Motorcycle Touring & Light Adventure — Paved and Unpaved Roads
Accommodation: Mix of pubs, guest houses (found on Booking.com)
Route Distance: Approx. 1,100 km

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Day 1 – Boat to Devonport

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Day 2 – Devonport to Cradle Mountain

Route
East Devonport → Latrobe → Railton → Sheffield → Mersey Forest → Liena → Moina → Cradle Mountain

Distance
Approx. 126 km

Daily Narrative
After arriving into East Devonport at some ungodly hour — around 5 a.m. — the Spirit of Tasmania docked and the loudspeaker call roused everyone to return to their vehicles. Unfortunately, Janette was suffering from a migraine, so we made our way into the centre of Devonport to park up and wait it out. With most of the town still asleep, McDonald’s became our refuge — coffee and a breakfast muffin (or cheeseburger) to start the day while Janette recovered.

An hour later, she was feeling much better, and we set off along the River Road, tracing the Mersey River toward Latrobe. The road wound through farmland and forest, the morning mist hanging low over the valley. From there, we turned onto the C146, heading towards Barrington, and then joined the B13 down to Railton, passing stretches of forest on our left before the landscape opened up to reveal the mining activity around town.

We stopped in Railton for another coffee — this time at a place called Burgers and Bikes, perhaps not the most inspired stop, but the bakery across the road was still closed. From there, we followed the B14 to Sheffield, surrounded by rolling hills and views of Mount Roland. Then it was onto the C137, looping into the Mersey Forest, where we made a brief attempt to stop at Mole Creek Caves — closed, unfortunately — before continuing on.

We pulled into the Mersey River Campgrounds for an impromptu roadside coffee using our camping gear, a small pause in an otherwise overcast but dry day. The road narrowed and twisted through Liena and Moina, before meeting the C132 that leads into Cradle Mountain Road.

By mid-afternoon, we rolled into Cradle Mountain, checking in at the Cradle Mountain Highlanders. We picked up supplies from the Discovery Parks general store — steaks, wine, and a few extras — and settled in for a cosy evening. The cabin was perfect: open fire, four-poster bed, and the mountain air cool and misty outside. Overcast skies all day, but no rain — just that moody, highland atmosphere that makes Cradle Mountain unforgettable.

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Day 3 – Cradle Mountain to Strahan

We spent the afternoon exploring Strahan Harbour and Regatta Point, the terminus of the West Coast Wilderness Railway, before enjoying a relaxed dinner overlooking the water at Risby Cove Hotel. A perfect end to a varied and memorable day.

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Day 4 – Strahan to Richmond

Route
Strahan → Queenstown → Derwent Bridge → Miena → Bothwell → Melton Mowbray → Lovely Banks → Mud Walls Road → Richmond

Distance
Approx. 282 km

Daily Narrative
Day 4 marked the longest ride of the trip, crossing Tasmania from the wild west coast to the rolling farmland of the east — more than 250 km, closer to 300 by day’s end. We left Strahan early under overcast skies after overnight rain, wiping down the bikes and settling in for a full day in the saddle. The ride began with a steep climb out of Strahan, ascending through the Teepookana Forest Reserve and dropping into Queenstown, an old mining town surrounded by raw, treeless hills. A quick coffee stop there before taking on the famous “99 Bends” — the twisting climb out of Queenstown along the A10 Lyell Highway, one of Tasmania’s best-known motorcycle routes. The road wound steadily upward, crossing the Lake Burbury Bridge and tracing the course of rivers including the Collingwood and Franklin.

By mid-morning we reached Derwent Bridge, stopping at the Hungry Wombat Café for coffee and a snack, before pressing east along the Lyell Highway. Turning off onto the B11 Marlborough Highway, we rode through open highlands past Little Pine Lagoon toward Miena, the gravel road rolling gently over alpine plateaus.

From Miena, we descended the A5 Highland Lakes Road, stopping in Bothwell for lunch at the Roadhouse Café, opposite the stone façade of St Michael and All Angels Anglican Church. Continuing south-east, we reached Melton Mowbray and joined the Midland Highway (A1) briefly before turning off again onto Lovely Banks Road, another dirt stretch that connected to Mud Walls Road (B11) — a beautiful, quiet backroad that carried us the final leg into Richmond.

By late afternoon, we rolled into town, checking into the Richmond Arms Hotel — tired but satisfied after a long, rewarding day through some of Tasmania’s most varied landscapes. Overcast skies throughout, but only light drizzle; a big day, capped perfectly with a well-earned beer at the Richmond Arms before settling in for the evening.

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Day 5 – Richmond to Freycinet

Route
Richmond → Runnymede → Buckland → Orford → Paradise Gorge → Swansea → Coles Bay → Freycinet

Distance
Approx. 180 km

Daily Narrative
Breakfast at Ashmore on Bridge Street in Richmond set the tone for the day — a quiet start before heading east under continual overcast skies. From town, we followed Brinktop Road, joining the A3 Tasman Highway as we began to make our way toward the east coast. The road wound gently through Runnymede and Buckland, before opening into the scenic approach to Orford, where the Prosser River runs alongside the highway. Passing through Paradise Gorge, the first glimpses of the coast appeared — a winding stretch of road that lives up to its name.

From Orford, we continued north on the Tasman Highway, enjoying a flowing coastal ride through Rocky Hills and Swansea before turning off onto the C302 Coles Bay Road. This long spur road led us directly into the Freycinet Peninsula, where granite peaks, turquoise water, and wide open skies greeted us at every turn.

Arriving early in the afternoon gave us time to explore Freycinet National Park, riding out to the Cape Tourville Lighthouse and Lookout, then down to Honeymoon Bay. From the lighthouse, the view across Wineglass Bay was stunning — the perfect reward for a shorter, scenic day.

We stayed the night at the BIG4 Iluka Caravan Park in Coles Bay, just a short walk from the beach. Dinner was self-catered after stocking up at the general store, followed by a relaxing beverage at the Iluka Tavern as the sun set over the bay.

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Day 6 – Freycinet to Pyengana

From there we rode north toward Bicheno, stopping at the Bicheno Blowhole before rejoining the Tasman Highway. We followed it past Chain of Lagoons, Little Beach, and Four Mile Creek, before reconnecting near Falmouth. The coastal stretch was breathtaking, with forested rises falling steeply to sea and glimpses of turquoise water below.

Further on, we passed Scamander and rode into St Helens, pausing at Banjo’s Bakery for a late lunch. Energised, we turned off toward Binalong Bay and the Bay of Fires, exploring as far north as Honeymoon Beach, and passing campgrounds like Sloop Reef filled with travellers from around Australia. One of the highlights was a spontaneous swim at Binalong Bay — cold, but indescribably beautiful in those white sands and clear water.

After drying off, we turned inland on the Tasman Highway toward Pyengana. Before reaching the day’s accommodation, we stopped at the Pyengana Dairy Company for a cheese board and a glass of wine — a perfect late-afternoon treat.

We arrived at the Pub in the Paddock, our home for the night, and settled in for dinner. The pub itself is steeped in history and character — licensed since 1880, making it one of Tasmania’s oldest rural pubs.Over time, the pub has gained a reputation as one of Tasmania’s standout country pubs — often celebrated in listings of the best rural pubs in the bush.

Inside, the walls are lined with local memorabilia and stories of the area. We spotted photos of @charley.boorman on his BMW GS, one of the inspirations behind our motorbike travels. Boorman’s Long Way Round, Down and Up journeys with Ewan McGregor had planted the seed for this kind of adventure years earlier — and it felt fitting to end the day in a place that shared that same spirit.

That evening, we enjoyed hearty country food and a relaxed drink, sharing the trip and ideas with other travellers and soaking in the ambiance of a pub that has welcomed travellers and locals for generations.

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Day 7 – Pyengana to Launceston

By the time we reached Lilydale, the rain had returned in force. We had hoped to visit Lilydale Falls, but the downpour made it impossible to walk in safely. Continuing south through Dilston, we joined the A8 into Launceston via Mowbray, both of us drenched but relieved to arrive without mishap — a true test of our developing riding skills and wet-weather endurance.

We checked gratefully into the Star Bar Café and Hotel, dripping from every layer. The hosts’ patience and kindness were much appreciated as we made our way upstairs to our room, hung all our gear from any available frame and made our way downstairs for a well earned Guinness. Later, we ventured out for a short wander around the Boag’s Brewery and Launceston’s old streets before warming up over a delicious Indian dinner at Palki Restaurant — the perfect comfort meal after a long, wet day.

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Day 8 – Launceston to Devonport (Melbourne)

By mid-morning it was time to hit the road. We rode north along the A7 West Tamar Highway, later branching onto the C728 to stay closer to the river through Gravelly Beach. The route wound gently through farmland and small riverside towns before opening into the vineyards of the Tamar Valley near Loira. Rejoining the A7, we continued north through Beaconsfield, an old mining town with character and history, and carried on toward the coast at Greens Beach.

From there, we followed sandy backtracks out to Badger Beach Lookout, where, for the first time all week, the sun finally broke through. With time on our side, we stretched out on the grass in our riding gear — a short rest in rare Tasmanian sunshine before turning west.

Still hours ahead of schedule, we followed a series of secondary roads: the C741 Bakers Beach Road through the Briggs Regional Reserve, then the C173 through rolling farmland to Sassafras on the main highway. From there, we wound our way back to Railton, neatly closing the loop from Day 1. We stopped at the Railton Hotel for a zero-alcohol beer with a few locals — a fitting bookend to where our Tasmanian journey had begun.

The final stretch north to Devonport was smooth and unhurried. With hours still in hand, we enjoyed an early dinner at Mrs Jones Restaurant and Bar, overlooking the harbour and the Spirit’s evening arrival. As dusk fell, we rode to the ferry terminal, joined the familiar queue of travellers, and boarded for the overnight voyage home.

By the time we rolled off in Melbourne at 5 a.m., our first motorbike tour was complete. Eight days, hundreds of kilometres, and one unforgettable adventure later — we were completely hooked on this new form of two-wheel travel.

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Trip Summary & Reflections

ight days, over 1,200 kilometres, and one unforgettable introduction to motorcycle touring.
This first Tasmanian ride proved to be the perfect testing ground for two new riders discovering how much of their old cycling spirit could be carried over onto motorbikes — and it turned out, quite a lot.

From the moment we wheeled the bikes onto the Spirit of Tasmania, the feeling was familiar: two wheels, self-supported, open to the elements, moving through landscapes . Every day brought new terrain — the alpine climbs near Cradle Mountain, the twisting descent through the Lyell Highway, the rolling highlands around Bothwell, and the spectacular coastlines of the east and north.

Tasmania offered the full range of experiences: misty mornings, long stretches of solitude, dramatic changes in weather, and plenty of warm welcomes at country pubs and cafés. The Pub in the Paddock stood out as a highlight, not only for its charm and history but as a reminder that adventure often meets comfort in the most unexpected places.

What we learned most from this trip was the balance between challenge and reward. Riding in rain through the highlands, navigating clay backroads, and tackling long days in the saddle all built confidence and trust — both in our bikes and in each other. By the time we rolled back into Devonport, we’d discovered how natural motorcycle touring felt: the same sense of rhythm and freedom that our long-distance cycling once brought us, but now extended across greater distances and deeper landscapes.

Back in Melbourne at dawn, stepping off the ferry felt less like the end of a trip and more like the beginning of a new chapter. The Suzuki V-Strom 650 and Honda CB500X had earned their stripes, and so had we. From here, the plans for future rides — across Australia and beyond — started taking shape.

Where to next – do we take the Bike or the Motorbike?